Cats are self-cleaning. A healthy cat spends a quarter of its waking life grooming, and the result is a coat that smells like nothing in particular and stays that way. Routine bathing isn't part of normal cat care.
Some cats do need a bath occasionally, though, and when the moment comes it's best to know what you're doing. A bath done badly teaches the cat that the bathroom is a trap, and you'll pay for that for years.
When a bath is actually needed
- The cat got into something toxic. Antifreeze, paint, motor oil. Don't let them lick it off.
- The cat got into something sticky or smelly that won't groom out. Tree sap, food, a long-departed mouse. (My cat once rolled in a half-eaten fish on a Saturday morning walk. That was a bath.)
- A senior or overweight cat that can't reach to groom properly, with greasy patches developing on the back or hindquarters.
- Hairless breeds (Sphynx, Donskoy). They need a bath every one to two weeks because they have no coat to absorb skin oils.
- A medical reason. Fleas, ringworm, a skin condition where the vet has prescribed a medicated shampoo.
Outside these, leave them alone.
What you need before the cat is in the room
Set everything up first. Once you start, you can't pause to find a towel.
- Cat shampoo. Never human or dog shampoo. The pH is wrong for cat skin. A gentle hypoallergenic cat shampoo from a vet or pet store is fine.
- A non-slip mat in the sink or tub. Cats panic on slippery surfaces more than on wet ones.
- A jug or handheld sprayer with lukewarm water. Filling the basin first and dipping the cat is more frightening than pouring water on them.
- Two large towels. One to wrap, one to dry.
- Cotton balls for the ears. Keeps water out.
- A second person, if you have the option. Honestly, get the second person.
The bath
- Brush the cat first. Wet mats become cement.
- Fill the sink with two or three inches of lukewarm water (test on your wrist, slightly warm, not hot).
- Lower the cat in slowly, talking quietly. Keep one hand under the chest the whole time.
- Wet the body with the jug, avoiding the face and ears.
- Lather a small amount of shampoo from neck to tail. Don't scrub. Work it through with the grain.
- Rinse thoroughly. Soap residue irritates the skin and the cat will lick it off later, which you don't want.
- For the face, use a damp cloth. Never pour water on a cat's face.
The whole bath should take under five minutes. Long baths are how cats get chilled.
Drying
Wrap the cat in a towel and press, don't rub, to absorb water. Switch to a dry towel. Most cats won't tolerate a hair dryer. If yours does, use the lowest heat and keep the nozzle moving. Otherwise let them finish drying in a warm room with no draft. Long-haired cats may need a comb through the damp coat to prevent mats forming as it dries.
Give a treat. Make the after-bath experience the good part.
Alternatives to a full bath
For most of the situations where you think you need a bath, you don't:
- Spot clean with a damp washcloth and a tiny amount of cat shampoo, rinsed thoroughly. Works for small messes.
- Cat wipes designed for the purpose. Useful for muddy paws or a greasy patch.
- Waterless shampoo. A foam you work into the coat and brush out. Useful for cats that genuinely cannot be bathed, and for senior cats that need help staying clean.
- A good brushing. Often what reads as "dirty" is just loose undercoat. A ten-minute groom solves it.
If you find yourself thinking about a bath more than once a year for a healthy adult cat, something else is probably going on. Diet, skin condition, an inability to groom. Talk to the vet before you fill the sink.